Buying a used car: the complete handbook

When you need a car purchase contract

A purchase contract does not require a specific form. Strictly speaking, a handshake and a promise over a beer are enough. Only with a car is the price usually four figures, and rarely do two people buy such a complex device from each other, where the seller knows the condition and the buyer does not.

That is exactly why the written form is almost always worthwhile in a private purchase. The contract is the only document that reliably proves months later who promised what. Without it, resolution depends on memories, and where money is involved those are notoriously one-sided.

If you want to be on the safe side, fill in a template and have both sides sign. The Vehicle Purchase Contract leads you step by step through all the fields that matter in a private vehicle sale.

Body styles: sedan, estate or SUV

The question of which body style fits you is rarely decided in your head, but in daily life. Space, driving distance and budget all play together. The key differences:

For a commuter who mostly drives alone, a classic sedan is usually more than enough and the cheapest to run. Families with a pram and moving plans go for the estate. Those who value seating position, visibility and robustness, and accept the higher consumption, choose an SUV. One tip: take a well-equipped car one class smaller rather than a barely affordable bigger one, you feel that kind of difference in running costs.

Engine types: diesel, petrol, electric or hybrid

With a used car, the choice of drivetrain has the biggest long-term financial impact, because it determines fuel costs, tax, maintenance and depreciation over years.

If you drive long distances every day, you benefit from the low diesel or petrol consumption, but given the current discussion about driving bans, an older diesel can be a risk in some cities. If you mostly drive short trips and can charge at home or work, electricity is cheapest. A hybrid is a good compromise for everyone who does not want to charge constantly but wants to save in town.

How petrol, diesel, hybrid and electricity work for your profile depends mainly on your consumption and your electricity price. If you commute, you can separately calculate the commuter allowance for your route to work.

Maintenance costs and cost per kilometre

Most people buy a car by its purchase price. The truth is that what a car really costs only shows in the price per kilometre over the whole time you own it. The most important items:

• Depreciation. The biggest cost, especially in the first years. A used car loses value more slowly than a new one.
• Fuel or electricity. Depends on consumption and mileage.
• Insurance. Liability, partial or fully comprehensive, strongly dependent on the car type.
• Vehicle tax. Based on displacement, CO2 and drivetrain.
• Maintenance and repair. Oil, filters, brakes, wear parts. Rising on older cars.
• Tyres. A summer, winter or all-season set, including fitting and storage.
• Other things. Parking, inspections, the mandatory roadworthiness test, small repairs.

As experience values for used cars, running costs per km come to roughly 30 to 40 cents for a small car, 40 to 55 cents for the compact class and 55 to 75 cents for a mid-size car. Your own figure depends heavily on age, depreciation and how and where you drive. If you commute, the Mileage Calculator works out the deductible commuter allowance for your route to work, and the loan calculator helps if you want to finance.

Private purchase or dealer: the warranty difference

The most important difference between the two routes can be summed up in one table.

For contracts signed from 31 July 2026 onwards, dealer purchases also come with a right to repair. The dealer must inform you of the choice between repair and replacement, and if you choose the repair, the limitation period is extended once by twelve months. This applies to business-to-consumer sales, between a dealer and a private buyer. In a private car purchase this mechanism normally does not exist; liability there is limited to deceit (Arglist) and express promises.

If you are unsure which route suits your budget, calculate the car purchase beforehand. The Percentage Calculator helps, for example, to quickly express a discount or the difference between an offer and your target price as a percentage.

The handover report: the second step after the contract

The purchase contract regulates the price, the handover report the condition. Together they are the complete picture a private car purchase should leave behind.

In the report you record at handover in what condition the vehicle is actually handed over: the mileage, visible scratches and dents, the tyre condition, the HU sticker and the date and time. Both sides sign. That makes it clear later in what state the car was at the change of ownership, and that is exactly where dispute otherwise arises.

The Vehicle Handover Report turns this into a checklist: you tick the points at the car and are protected from unjustified follow-up claims if it comes to that.

Service life and mileage: how long does each engine last?

The expected service life decides how quickly a used car pays off. It depends less on age than on care and history. Realistic magnitudes:

• Petrol. With good care 200,000 to 250,000 km, often more. Robust naturally aspirated engines last longer than heavily tuned turbo engines.
• Diesel. Much more durable, many reach over 300,000 km without problems. The turbo and the diesel particulate filter are the typical weak points.
• Electric. Fewer moving parts; it all comes down to the battery. Modern high-voltage batteries lose capacity slowly, 150,000 km and more are common, and the battery warranty is usually 8 years or 160,000 km.
• Hybrid. Combustion engine plus battery; the lifespan sits between the worlds, and the battery is usually smaller and cheaper to replace.

What to look at when viewing: a complete service history, the condition of the timing chain or belt (and when it was renewed), rust on wheel arches and underside, and the known weak points of the specific model. A car with 150,000 km and a full service book is almost always the better choice than an 80,000 km car without records.

Tyres: summer, winter and all-season

Tyres are wear parts with a safety effect, and they cost more than many think. A new set of summer tyres costs several hundred euros depending on class and size, winter tyres similar.

• Winter tyres. Germany has no fixed season, but a situational obligation: in winter conditions (snow, ice, slipperiness) suitable tyres must be fitted. Since 1 October 2024 only the Alpine symbol (mountain pictogram with snowflake, 3PMSF) counts; M+S-only tyres are no longer permitted in winter (fine from 60 EUR, 1 point). A separate winter set noticeably improves safety.
• All-season tyres. The practical compromise without changing and storage, ideal for low-mileage drivers and mild regions. With heavy snow they lag behind real winter tyres.
• Summer tyres. The best choice for warm months; in cold weather they lose grip and wear faster.
• Tread depth. Legally at least 1.6 mm; the ADAC recommends at least 4 mm for winter tyres and more than the legal minimum for summer tyres in the wet. The MOT may still pass on old tread, but safety is something else.
• Age. Tyres age even without being driven. After about 6 to 10 years the industry recommends replacement, recognisable by the DOT number on the sidewall.

When buying a used car, tyre inspection belongs in your handover report: tread, age, cracks and whether a complete second set is included. A set of winter tyres in the purchase price is a realistic point for negotiation.

New and upcoming rules: what the EU and Germany plan

The law changes, and when buying a car a glance ahead is worthwhile. These developments are decided, planned or under discussion, as of end of 2026:

• EU combustion ban from 2035 (decided, being renegotiated). New combustion cars may no longer be newly registered in the EU from 2035. This only affects new registrations, not existing and used cars, which remain legal and continue to be sold. In December 2025 the EU Commission proposed a realignment of the CO2 and vehicle categories that is currently being negotiated. For used-car buyers this means: no reason to panic, the used-car market stays.
• E-fuels (under discussion). Germany is pushing for an exemption for climate-neutral e-fuels beyond 2035. An agreement is still pending and would mainly affect new cars.
• Euro 7 emission standard (decided, from end of 2026/2027). Euro 7 applies to type approval of new car models from November 2026 and to all new registrations from the end of 2027. It brings new tests and a vehicle passport with battery information. Consequence: new cars tend to get more expensive, which supports the prices of older used cars.
• Vehicle tax for electric cars (decided, relief for now). Pure electric cars first registered by the end of 2030 are exempt from vehicle tax until the end of 2035. A newly bought EV therefore drives tax-free for years. With an old diesel, in contrast, the tax rises with displacement and CO2 values.
• Environmental zones and diesel driving bans (ongoing). Many cities have green environmental zones; in Munich diesel driving bans for older Euro standards apply, in Stuttgart and Darmstadt restrictions were most recently introduced — check the current status on the relevant site. If you drive into city centres, check with an older diesel whether you are allowed in.
• Charging infrastructure and vehicle passport (decided). The EU rules (AFIR) massively expand the public charging network, and a uniform battery pass will provide more transparency about the condition of EV batteries, especially relevant when buying a used electric car.

These points are a snapshot. Laws and negotiations change. Keep an eye on developments around drivetrain, tax and environmental zones if your car should last for years.

After the purchase: deadlines, insurance and registration

Once the contract is signed, a second chapter with its own deadlines begins. Insurance and vehicle tax start with registration, and without the eVB number you are turned away at the registration office. In addition, the HU sticker is valid exactly until the month stated, and a late appointment costs time and money.

Deadlines and dates easily get muddled. The Date Calculator works out for you by when registration has to be done or when the next HU is due. An appointment in the calendar saves the overdue visit to the inspection centre.

Important terms when buying a car

While browsing listings you come across many specialist terms. The most important in brief:

• Full service history. Regular maintenance with complete proof in the service book. This speaks for a well-kept car, but does not replace your own inspection.
• First owner. The seller is the original buyer of the vehicle. A first-owner car usually has few kilometres and a complete history, which supports the price.
• Second or third owner. Correspondingly many previous owners. More owners do not automatically mean more risk, but the history becomes harder to trace.
• Full equipment. The vehicle is equipped with almost all available extras, for example air conditioning, navigation, assistance systems and heated seats. Common with German premium models.
• Accident-free. No reportable accident damage is known. Small bodywork damage is something else; if in doubt, ask.
• HU or TÜV. The main German roadworthiness inspection. The HU sticker shows how long it is valid, and a fresh TÜV raises the value.
• Day registration. The dealer registers the car briefly in their own name. It counts as a used car but is essentially new, often with a decent price advantage.
• Nearly new (one year old). First registered less than a year ago, briefly driven and therefore almost new, but cheaper than the new price.
• Former company car. Often high mileage and lots of equipment, but with a well-documented history from the fleet.
• Used-car warranty. An additional dealer warranty that goes beyond the statutory liability and can be taken out at an extra cost.
• eVB number. The electronic insurance confirmation. Without it there is no registration, so get it from your insurance beforehand.
• Mileage. The kilometres driven, the central number for the value of a used car.
• Depreciation. The amount a car loses through age and kilometres, the biggest hidden cost.
• All-season tyres. All-season tyres with the Alpine symbol (mountain pictogram with snowflake, 3PMSF), the compromise without changing wheels. Since 1 October 2024 M+S-only tyres are no longer valid as winter tyres.
• EURO standard. A vehicle's emission standard, important for environmental zones and driving bans.

Common pitfalls in a private car purchase

Caution is needed not only with the paperwork, but also with the car itself. A few points come up again and again in practice.

• Odometer manipulation. Manipulated mileage is widespread, and cleanly done odometer adjustments escape even workshops. Countermeasures: compare the mileage in old inspection reports and service books, and contact the previous owner from part II of the registration certificate.
• Stolen vehicles. Anyone who buys property that has been lost acquires no ownership under section 935 BGB even in good faith. Warning signs such as a missing or forged document, or a price far below market value, should lead to questions.
• Wrong previous-owner details. Writing them wrongly into the contract conceals a defect. Courts treat this as a pre-contractual breach, in extreme cases the sale must be reversed.
• Warm engine. During the viewing the engine should be cold, otherwise starting problems hide behind apparent normalcy. Inspect the car in daylight and, if possible, through a trusted workshop.

If you work through these points you reduce the risk considerably. The rest lies in good documentation: purchase contract signed, handover report filled in, deadlines under control. That is exactly what the tools are for, and that is how a private car purchase runs smoothly.